I went to my market coffee man to buy some more chocolate he's been offering in home-done shrink wrapping, a casing that made me that that he processed it. This quite excited me because me too, I make chocolate from beans. Not now (though I did consider transporting the boulder-heavy juicer I use to grind the beans into cocoa liqueur with me when I came back to Paris over Christmas Break), but when I'm back in NE I'll pick up where I left off - with my pounds of roasted beans I bought off of Chocolate Alchemy (www.chocolatealchemy.com). I will shell what's not shelled and push them through the juicer my mother magically had from her juice-making to help her sickness. They will turn into a smooth brown goop. I will add sugar and spices and HOPEFULLY (for this is a new part), be able to refine it all in my new chocolate melangeur (refer to prior post...). This should then make a smooth chocolate.
The chocolate I've made before was gritty like Ibarra chocolate discs, because like Ibarra, I made it to be a drinking chocolate. And it made some interesting hot chocolate.
But anyway, back to the coffee man. It turns out he doesn't process his chocolate from the beans, but buys the cocoa mass, and makes them into bars. Ah. He also talked about how most French chocolatiers don't process their own beans. They, like him, get the mass pre-processed. At any rate, French chocolate is mostly known for its truffles and chocolate creations (Christmas, Easter chocolate formations, sculptures...). So the chocolatier's job is mostly her/his taste (I put the "her" first just to put the girls forward a bit, but actually, from what I've noticed, there don't seem to be too many female chocolatiers...). S/He will taste all various cocoa masses to use, mix and mold and - create. They are "createurs."
Which is all fine, but to tell you the truth, chocolate goes deeper for me. It goes to the blood or bone. I'm not sure why, but such is such. I have this unquenchable desire to know more about chocolate, not just how to work with it, not just how to blend it. I want to know how to make it. Not just how to use it as an ingredient, but to understand as an element that you respect.
Among the French chocolatiers that make their own chocolate, there is Pralus:
http://www.chocolats-pralus.com/fr/francois-pralus.htmlAnd I've been trying to figure out who else does. Valrhona seems to be the main supplier of cocoa mass (I don't have any hard fact about this, just things I've read). Maybe Bernachon (which I admit to have missed in Lyon, but the boutique was a little out of my roaming way...)
http://www.bernachon.com/accueil_en.htmlEn tout cas, I have been to Bayonne, and I was in Bayonne twice - once because of chocolate, twice because of accident (a little story about a train that split in half...), but lucky for that accident, otherwise I wouldn't have tasted:
http://www.chocolats-bayonne-cazenave.fr/atelier-chocolat-bayonne-cazenave-i-3.htmlBecause the first time I was there I was on my first French travel alone and was a little intimidated by the last leg of my trip (harsh rainy weather, unwelcomingness, swine flu...). I had gotten some bars of dark chocolate, but didn't stop into the chocolate/tea houses. But the second time I did, and it was Cazenave, and I tasted the truest cup of chocolat that I've had anywhere other than by my own making.
Because the history of chocolate fascinates me. Whoever was first to concoct it, it's known that it had a very important part in Mayan and Aztec cultures, such is why the Spanish were the first to bring it to the "Old World." And before various experiments and machinery were made, chocolate was a drink. For ages and ages it was a drink. Even when it was taken to Europe and appropriated it was still - a drink. It was still made by grinding roasted beans on a heated metate, as was done in the "New World," to make a paste. But the Europeans did away with some of the traditional spices, added sugar and their own flavorings, and milk. Hot cocoa - that thin-liquidy drink, was in the making (once they figured out how to separate the mass into cocoa powder and cocoa butter).
Hot chocolate often offends me. Sorry. I grew up with it - Swiss Miss, with marshmallows. Every winter we had it, after sledding, romping in the snow. We'd come back wet like we'd been swimming from the melted snow, strip off the puffy outer spaceman layers, make some cocoa and watch a movie. We usually heated the milk in the microwave, added the scoopfuls of the cocoa mix, threw in the mallows - et voila.
I don't have anything against these childhood pleasures. But childhood is childhood, and what perturbs me is the state of hot chocolate in French cafes (in my limited experience, because I try not to order it anymore...). It's usually thin cocoa milk. And when I think of the voluptuousness of what a chocolat can be, I cry a little... (maybe not really)
Anyway, Cazenave is the only place I've found it to fit my imagination. Maybe the problem for me is that people prefer it made with milk. And I admit sometimes I enjoy it that way too. At Cazenave I had it made with water.
What I'm skating around is that I want to get as close to the bean as possible. I want to make chocolates "à l'ancienne," but not the kind of chocolate I've gotten à l'ancienne in French cafes. I don't use a metate, I've got a Champion Juicer, which simplifies the process a bit... And soon I'll have a melangeur to make eating chocolate and hopefully to smooth out some of the un-conched chocolate flavors (which can be pretty sharp).
I was reading the chocolate edition of "Artes de Mexico (numero 103)" that I got at the chocolate salon in Paris this winter. There was a Mexico stand, and they were selling chocolates made from beans from Tabasco and Chiapas, and also this magazine. In it they talk about how to the Mayas, chocolate was most likely symbolic of blood (colored red even with annatto). The whole blood-drinking Catholickyness of it is interesting, not that there was any influence in either direction, but just the unsuspected parallel. Drinking blood, sacred/symbolic drinks (chocolate, wine). People are passionate about wine too. And I'm passionate about chocolate - and blood is symbolic of passion anyway. It is something to be explored. Something to be learned.